Places: Etxebarri Restaurant--Innovative Grilling in Basque Country

Address:

Axpe, Vizcaya
Basque Country (near Bilbao)
Tel: 91 365 0804

Etxebarri is hot at the moment! It seems to be everywhere I look. It has been featured all over Spanish press recently as it's owner/cook Bittor Arginzoniz has been voted one of the top chefs in Spain this year. It has also made its way into international press, featuring in both Food and Wine magazine and most recently Time magazine.

I had no idea this restaurant was going to become so high profile when we picked it early in 2006 as the reception site for our September 2006 wedding. I just knew I didn't want my wedding in a hotel setting, but rather in a more authentic Basque setting. I also wanted outstanding food and wine. We found all those things at Etxebarri.

The restaurant had been since the early 90s and ahs been a local favourite for some time, but it is only recently that Bittor has been recognized for his innovative cooking techniques with the grill. The grill is the heart of the restaurant…it is specially designed to allow for perfect grilling control. Bittor grills everything…and I mean everything! He even invented special grill instruments to allow him to grill tiny things such as caviar or elvers (baby eels)!

The setting is magical, nestled in Axpe valley amongst the Basque hills. The location seems completely remote, yet it is only a 20 minute drive from Bilbao. The restaurant is beautiful, a traditional 300 yr old Basque caserio converted into an elegant restaurant where modern and traditional elements fuse perfectly. The décor is elegant and simple, yet warm and inviting. Most importantly the basic stemware is Reidel!! The new line of stemless glassware "O" is used for water glasses (much better than for wine!) The service is outstanding, efficiently managed by a team of highly professional ladies who have worked at the restaurant for years.

The overall experience is top notch, but the real top reason to make the trip is the incredible food!

Recently we returned again to Etxebarri and were again blown away by the cuisine. One new dish we tried this time was grilled oysters: a delicate and exquisite version fo this dish. The ouster are shucked and removed form the shells. All membranes are removed so just the perfect core remains. The oyster juice is reserved in a spray bottle and is used to keep the oysters moist as they grill for just a couple of minutes each side. Tender seaweed is also grilled until it gets a smoky quality and the oysters are presented on a bed of these. Totally simple, but at the same time shockingly original. The delicate, briny flavour of the just cooked oysters blends perfectly with the smoky grilled notes. The contrast in textures between the melt-in-your-mouth oyster and the seaweed is also surprising.

This is just a small example of the type of elaborate, yet simple cuisine at Etxebarri. For those of you not tempted by what I describe above…there are also some of the best grilled steaks in all of Spain!

The menu changes frequently, especially the starters. The main courses are always based on simply grilled fish and steaks. Other outstanding dishes we've tried there include:
Grilled monkfish (actually any grilled fish)
Lobster salad (tender lobster over bitter greens and tomato marinated in orange vinaigrette)
Txangurro (crab done Basque style, with brandy and cream)
Home-made chorizo (really home-made and really excellent)
Grilled herring fillets with zucchini (perfect to convert those who think they don't like herrings!)
Anchovies with fire-roasted peppers (another dish so good that it can convert anchovy-haters!)

The wine-list is short, but well-selected. With our last meal we had Roda II, the second wine from the Rioja winery Roda. A very modern Rioja: big cherry fruit, lively acidity and excellent French oak. Really nice with our perfectly grilled steaks!

The desserts are excellent and elaborate, but my favourite is one of the most simple: A wonderful sweet cheese ice cream made for the local Idiazabal cheese, served in a puddle of perfect sweet-tart wild berry coulis. Outstanding!